Saturday, June 23, 2007

ere ere pau sa, tu la deto pai sa (come come rain, I give you money)

I have been in India 8 weeks now. I finally understand the Indian idea of working hard.
A hard day work can look like getting up around 7 am, make chai, prepare dinner, eat something, leave the house to go to work around 10, start work at 11, have your tiffin (dinner brought from home) between 1 and 2 pm and finish at 4pm. Go back home, rest for an hour, cook dinner and sleep. It is possible that the women work harder than the men..

To me this looks more like a day of in the Netherlands. I have the feeling that even on my day of I was able to produce more work than the people do here while working hard. I have to bare in mind though that the temperature here is quite high in dry seasons and during the monsoon the humidity is, I guess, far above 70%. To sweat you don’t have to do anything, just have a bath and try to dry yourself.. So everything is adjusted to this climate and in a hot climate you take it easy and your biggest worry is to drink enough.

My problem has been that I was still moving on NL speed. Now I have not that much that I can do by myself. I rely on other people now to get the things done that I want done, and now I seem to have a lot of time to do nothing. Or even when I am doing something, it feels like I am not doing much. I wonder what the impact of this laid back, easy going, all the time in the world approach will have when I get back. ..

I have to tell you, I did see 3 tigers last week, when I was on Jungle Round. Very nice looking and one of the last chances to see them, because now everything starts to be green ad get leaves, grass grows, water stays in the waterholes inside the forest and the tigers will not come out during the day anymore.

This morning I worked hard, joining a jungle round on foot. Every morning this is done. Nanauri goes in the forest with another guy (always 2 to be safe) and they check for pugmarks of tigers and leopards. Also they check if there have been any poachers or other strange markings. After a walk of 2 hours we got back this morning and the work was done. Of both, leopard and tiger we found a pugmark and made a drawing with the exact location of where it was found. Can you imagine this being your job??!!

Oh yeah, before I forget. I am working on my assignments too. I have 1 assignment for the Forest Department to do problem inventory, 1 assignment to find out about how people feel about moving out of Tadoba and 1 assignment to get a good view of the positive effect of the SCF handicraft project on the use of the forest. The first one I changed in the second one, because the FD did not want me to do anything really and I thought the 2nd one would be interesting. Now the FD wants me to stick to my original plan, so back to nr 1 and the 3rd one I decided on after I was told that the second one would be almost impossible (permit, work, rain ,etc)

Further the monsoon period has started. Some funny red creatures, local name gosei, are the sign for the start of this time in the year. Don’t worry that there hasn’t been that much rain yet, it will come. Till now most rain has fallen during the nights. I am happy with that, because then I can do thing in daytime. The humidity is the problem though, if it rains a bit more the temperature will drop and the humidity should be a lot less. I am so looking forward to that…

July start visiting schools and doing my problem inventory in the villages in and around Tadoba I hope. Still waiting for permission on paper to go around by bike…

Saturday, June 9, 2007

There’s a rat in my kitchen...

I know, 3 posts in 2 weekends is a bit much, but hey, I have nothing else to do but watching lightning and read. Ramrao was not available all week again. I tried to contact him via wireless, but no response and via papa Shek I found out today (8-6) that he is in Warora, family problems. Last week he had problems in Moharli. I wonder where he will be next week…

Because I haven’t been feeling comfortable without a toilet for the last couple of days, and had no one around to accompany met to visit the NGO’s and the CF in Chandrapur, I can say that I had not much else to do. I finished my book ‘Like the flowing river, by Paulo Coelho’ en started reading ‘Doing your research project: a guide for first-time researchers in education, health and social scene, by Judith Bell’. Quite interesting I must say, with some good tips. Since school advised us to think about what to do for thesis…I’ve started thinking about that now..

Tuesday week I met Vishwas. He is the other guy for the education project. He seems nice to me, but he doesn’t speak that much English. Well we see how far we get. I guess it will be alright, because I can also understand some other people in Tadoba and they can understand me, as long as we use more than words…pictures and sounds help a lot and it’s actually a laugh when you come to think of it. Try it at home, and everybody will wonder if you are a fruitcake.

Vishwas will start next Monday. I would like to start the training of activities then, and hope that Ramrao will be there too, because I like to work a bit more efficiently than the Indians are used to. Train 2 in 1 might be a bit easier, since they can help each other when there are things one of them doesn’t understand. Also I will only get frustrated once about something and not twice or more. Keep holding my breath and counting till 1,2,3,4, etc…

The 7th of June is the official starting date for the monsoon period. In the evening of the 6th it started to rain heavily and the humidity disappeared for the night, only to return the next morning, even worse than before. I don’t like this sticky weather. This is comparable to the Netherlands with more than 27oC, only here it’s still in the 40’s. I thought the rain season had started, but thought too soon. The next night was one with beautiful lightning shows above the lake, some rain and a lovely cold breeze…even felt a bit chilly and thought about getting my sheets.

Other thought that came up where scorpions and snakes… when the monsoon starts the water wakes them up and the snakes and scorpions will appear from their holes. I guess one of the first things they will do is look for food and there might be a minor concern…I have a rat in my kitchen… Before coming to India I did read something about rats attracting snakes, so I hope this rat is different. There is absolutely no way I can keep the animal out of my kitchen and I am not looking forward to meet a snake. There are just many holes and gaps via which it can enter my kitchen and if the rat can enter, why not the snake…
By the way, did you know that rats eat candles?!

Saturday, June 2, 2007

4 chital, 2 barking deer, a wild boar and an eagle.

Once a year about 300 till 350 people sign in to help counting the animals in Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. There are about 100 people located in every range. These ranges are Tadoba, Kolsa and Moharli.

So this year I signed in (and will be in the Indian Daily, Newspaper). I thought only NGO’s (Non Government Organisations) were aloud to join, but the case is also many private persons join. They don’t only come from Chandrapur or Nagpur, also people from Mumbai are present. That is 17 hours by train to count from 12 noon till 6 am and then go back again for 17 hours.

Normally the count is at the beginning of May, but due to heavy rainfall this year they had to postpone to the 31st, because that was the first full moon after the 2nd of May, and also the last occasion before the monsoon will start.

So the 31st of May was the big day. We were dropped of on a watch tower somewhere in the Tadoba range. A nice spot, with a pond and therefore the chance on seeing many animals is bigger. I sat there with one lady from Chandrapur –teacher in environmental studies- and a guide from the Maharashtra Forest Department. The 1st hour we saw 4 chital and 1 wild boar, but he didin’t count. The 2nd hour 1 barking deer and 1 eagle, but there are too many birds, so they don’t count either, and the 3rd hour again a barking deer.
view from watch tower. drinking water 2 bandar, behind (you need good eyes :), a barking deer

While starting our 4th hour, waiting eagerly for something more spectacular to happen than bandars (monkey) jumping in and out of the trees, playing hide and seek or tack, the weather decided to change from nice and sunny in quite humid, cloudy and illuminating at times joined by a big bang. Big drops found that it was time to drop down at us, and to avoid being soaked to the bone, we sought shelter in a Hindu temple. (I have now learned that the meaning of orange is devotion). This pre-monsoon weather liked hanging around for a big part of the evening and the count had, yet again, come to an early end. No nice night on the watch tower in the moonlight counting many animals and hoping for bears, tigers and leopards to pass by. Shame…


People, don't forget to check the link to My webalbum. Posting pictures goes much faster that way, so I will update in that album every now and then.

My first Indian Muslim wedding

29-05.
Well, I thought I would have something very interesting to tell you all. Last weekend I was invited to attend a wedding of the sun of Shanoo’s unce in Chandrapur. Indian weddings, for what I had heard, can be quite different and interesting, compared to a Dutch wedding. I must say, I was a little disappointed.

This Muslim wedding was from Friday till Monday. The first 2 days are for family to arrive and meet. The neighbours will leave for a few days, so all relatives have somewhere to sleep. The last preparations for the big day have to be made and much food and music is available, as long as there is no power cut. Also the mehndies are drawn on the hands of the women who like that. These are drawings with red henna and are made on your hand and arm by a friend. If, after an hour or so, the henna starts to brake your hand will have a nice red/brown pattern on it. The deeper the red colour the better, because they believe that a deep red colour means that you have and receive a lot of love. (White people most of the times will get a deeper red colour, so…J)

The 3rd day is the day of the wedding ceremony. This was held in Balarshah,, what meant that most of the relatives and friends were put up somewhere near the mosque in Balarshah for the night. The ones that lived close came the next morning.

Before the ceremony at 10.30 the groom was dressed. A long white coat/dress down to his ankles, a 5 meter fabric draped around his head, 11 kilo’s of white flowers hung around his shoulders and chest and the finishing touch, a curtain of white flowers and slingers (what looked like x-mas decorations) was tied in front of his face, so he couldn’t see. Then it was time for family and friends to, one by one, wish him all the best and put some money on a tray. The groom then was taken to the car by his father and uncles and from there on it took another 30-45 minutes to get to the mosque, which was around the corner, because every 10 meters there was a stand still so the men (and some women) could dance on very loud music.
At the mosque women and children had to wait in a separate room until the wedding ceremony got to an end and bride and groom where married. Even the mother has to witness the ceremony from the separate room. After the ceremony it was time for dinner and then go home. (Every meal is called dinner, this was lunch)

One of the things I noticed is that most of the Muslim women don’t cover their head. Some women only cover their head when praying or greeting each other and there were only a few women, who were dressed all in black with only their eyes visible.

The last day was dinner, organised by the groom’s father. This was supposed to be a big thing and everyone was expected to look their best. For the men that meant suit or new jeans and blouse. For the women that meant new saari, salwar suit or other tailor-made dress, a lot of make-up, many bangles and their own wedding jewellery plus that of their mother or grandmother.

This dinner was supposed to end with dancing, but thunder, lightning and rain decided different and most guests went for dinner and then straight home. Oh well, the bride and groom have something to look back on. I don’t think there are many Indian couples who have a foreigner on the pictures in their wedding album.